Making our annual pilgrimage to Mersea Island, some miles east of Colchester, for crab, prawns, scallops, and oysters of all sizes, grilled if you like them that way. I tried one – mushroom and gruyere – but I’m not convinced. I take a dash of vinegar. Others just eat them as they come, in quantities of 42. Afterwards a meander through mobile home tardis, a scramble with barbed wire, and a stroll to the end of a ricketty jetty.